It’s one of those uncharacteristic grim rainy days here in Jerusalem. It’s been far too easy to kid myself into believing that the blue skies and pleasant temperatures I had become some used to could somehow defy the “law of seasons” and leave us with a perpetual summer. Oh well…
Rain or shine one thing that is guaranteed is that the newspapers here in Israel will be full of the latest news from the front-line of the Israeli/Palestinian conflict. The barrage of news stories of settlements, possible terrorist activities, and diplomatic meetings are endless; perfect for any Middle East news junkie like myself. The sad thing is that after a while it can all begin to wash over you, without any of it featuring on your radar. No matter what anyone writes or reports, no matter how optimistic or enlightening the news piece or opinion article may be, you’re sure to be left with the knowledge that nothing positive will ever come out of it. Gosh, I’ve been here only 6 weeks and already I’ve become cynical about the daily pronouncements of “peace plans”, “settlement freezes”, “UN deals” etc., etc.
Enough of the pessimism; here’s an opinion piece I read in this morning’s Haaretz: How we became a night unto the nations by Yoel Marcus. He writes how Israel, post-independence, was admired internationally in the West, but has since seen its reputation take a battering in the wake of the prolonged occupation and countless bloody wars.
Looking back on the history of Israel it is striking how much good will there was once was for this tiny country that rose from the ashes of the pogroms and the Holocaust, how they eked out a viable functioning democratic viable state from the inhospitable territory that makes up today’s Israel, defending themselves from Arab attacks on all fronts. It’s remarkable really. I could muddy the debate by mentioning the displacement of millions of Arabs, but the fact remains that until probably the 1980s perhaps Israel was viewed overwhelmingly positively in the West.
But admiration for Israel’s strength gradually turned into resentment over the side effects of the prolonged occupation. Don’t speak Hebrew in public places overseas, tourists to Europe are warned today. Indeed, the days when someone could ask what language we were speaking and we would answer “Hebrew” with pride are long gone.
Israel’s military might and its unrestrained use of this might have turned the David-versus-Goliath analogy into an asset for the Palestinians. Israel is no longer described as at risk of being destroyed, but as a strong country, aggressive and domineering, as Charles de Gaulle once said. President Shimon Peres was recently greeted by angry demonstrations in Argentina and Brazil. Many countries boycott Israeli products, and Israeli lecturers on college campuses throughout the West endure catcalls. During Ehud Olmert’s recent lecture tour of the United States, he was greeted almost everywhere he went with cries such as “child killers!”
The belief that all foreigners must have a negative impression of Israel extends to the commercial field as well. Easy Jet, when promoting the launch of their new route between London and Tel Aviv, chose not to mention Tel Aviv an Israeli city; any association with Israel deemed likely to put off travellers. I would argue that this not because Europeans must be inherently anti-Israeli, but rather because we still think of Israel as county where terrorist attacks must be a daily occurrence – that, at least, was the impression I got when I told people I was moving to Israel. Generally people were saying a) “I’ve heard it’s wonderful country” or b) “What about all the wars and terrorist attacks?”
So while it’s true that Israeli politicians might continue to get a hard time abroad, having to deal with the torrent of tough questions or outright abuse I don’t agree with the fact that Israelis can’t travel in the West and feel as if they must quieten they voices when they speak Hebrew, as Yoel Marcus alludes.
The views of Israeli in Western university campuses is of course a different matter:
Of greatest concern is what is happening on American campuses, which are slowly becoming pro-Palestinian and anti-Israeli. That is dangerous because this is where America’s future leaders are bred. But our opponents are not motivated by anti-Semitism, as our political hacks like to claim. If patriotism is the last refuge of the scoundrel, then anti-Semitism is the last refuge of the occupier.
I am glad to read that he doesn’t fall back on the anti-Israel = anti-Semitic equation that is so widespread among nationalistic commentators here and really makes any criticism of Israel very hard.
He concludes with these words, which I think hold a lot of truth:
Before sticking our noses into the problem of Iran’s nuclear program, which is a source of international concern, it would be preferable for our government to discuss how we got to where we are – no longer a light unto the nations – and what needs to be done to stop the freefall in our international image before it’s too late.
The question is then, whether improving the international reputation of Israel involves addressing the grievances of the Western world by enabling the creation of a viable Palestinian state? Or does it involve Israel tirelessly arguing their plight, hoping that the world will come round to the Israeli view that they are they still the David in the David vs. Goliath battle against nuclear Iran, suicide bombers, Qassam rockets, Hamas and Hezbollah?
I don’t hold much hope for either of the two options at the moment…but then what’s new?
Today was spent on a good old sight-seeing trip of Jerusalem’s Old City, along with Asya’s family who drove up from the kibbutz for the day.
It’s the first time I had been back within the Old City walls since returning to Israel, and our short meander through Mt. Zion and then the Old City itself only served to remind me how lucky I am to live in the vicinity of this living artifact, so alive with historic, religious, and political significance. If you’re successful in escaping the mobs of tourists groups (we were not) this labyrinth-like city is home to treasures that make for an unforgettable experience: heaving bazaars, religious epicentres and beautiful vantage points. It’s all here!
Try as I might and I don’t think any words I write could really describe the sights, smells and sounds that envelop the different neighbourhoods that make up the old city; here below, at least, are photos from some of the places we passed.

The crowded forecourt outside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the purported site of the death and resurrection of Jesus. Heavy stuff...didn't feel like desecrating the actual tomb with me taking a photo, so you're all going to have to come and check it out yourself.

Panoramic view out over the Temple Mount (the plaza with the Dome of the Rock) and the Mount of Olives.

#1 Hot-Spot for religious tensions. The Western Wall and Temple Mount - 2 of the holy sites most venerated by Jews and Muslims alike. A few moments later I was down in front of the Western Wall (or Wailing Wall) making my own little prayer. Unfortunately getting up onto the Temple Mount is near-impossible if you're Jewish, so I'll have to venture back there alone one day.
After the disappointment of not getting my visa application fully sorted last week, it was time to experience my first full weekend in Jerusalem, not that anything out of the ordinary happened this weekend. It’s just that it still takes time to adjust your days of the week to fit around a weekend where Thursday evenings here are like our Fridays, and Sunday mornings are as dreary and full of dread as our own Monday mornings; not to mention the Shabbat laws which are effectively in full enforcement from mid-afternoon on Friday until Saturday evening. The notion that the entire public transport apparatus along with the majority of shops, restaurants, businesses etc. shut up shop for the best part of 30 hours is something pretty alien for anyone who has become so accustomed to the 24 hours-a-day 7 days-a-week commercial life.
So yes, Shabbat is the supposed day of rest for all Jewish Israelis, especially those of the more ultra-orthodox leanings. Now I will leave it for another occasion to write about some of the more obscure rules that regulate what actions are considered permissible on Shabbat, but just to give you an idea it is pretty much forbidden for them to do literally anything, from turning on electrical appliances, making phone calls, turning on the TV etc.
However, this Saturday at the height of Shabbat, a group of ultra-orthodox men used their “day of rest” to converge en masse in front of the newly built Intel microchip plant to demonstrate against it operating on Shabbat as well as employing Jews to work on Shabbat. “Shabbas! Shabbas!” chants filled the air (the Yiddish work for Shabbat) and as tensions rose stones were thrown at journalists, while the deputy mayor was attacked upon his arrival to scene for not having intervened earlier on the side of the ultra-orthodox. This begs the question whether the ultra-orthodox are themselves violating their very own strict Shabbat rules when engaging in such violent activity?
Now I am all for respecting the cultural and religious sensitivities of the ultra-orthodox, they have the right to live out their way of life as they see fit – even if many of their traditions and practices hark back to a bygone era (e.g. women must sit at the back of the buses while the men sit in the front). But surely there must be limits…
Although my sense of geography is still a bit sketchy I am pretty sure this Intel plant is nowhere near any of the ultra-orthodox neighbourhoods, but in an industrial park on one of the main roads leading out of Jerusalem. It’s not as if they if they’ve planted their factory in the heart of a religious neighbourhood. The ultra-orthodox complain that the mere opening of the plant on the Shabbat, not only violates their day of rest but also the sanctity of the holy city.
This is by no means the first incidence of the ultra-orthodox community exercising their outrage at the opening of buildings or public spaces on Shabbat. Over the summer the issue has been of a parking lot in central Jerusalem that was open on Shabbat – yes, violent riots ensued over a parking lot! These violent groups remain a minority within the ultra-orthodox community, but as acts carried about by Palestinians show, it only takes the violent actions of a few for a negative characteristic to be stamped upon a whole group.
Intel has since warned that they are ready to abandon their operations in Israel if these disruptions persist. Despite its huge symbolic importance, Jerusalem is one of Israel’s poorest cities and desperately needs to keep hold of the few multinational high-tech companies that choose to base themselves here.
The Arab/Israeli divide may be the most documented of divisions that exist in Jerusalem, but in the day-to-day running of the Jewish parts of the city it is the secular/ultra-orthodox divide that is most apparent. While the two communities tend to self-segregate themselves into separate neighbourhoods, the growing ultra-orthodox population has been able to use their growing political leverage to expand religious preferences into the municipal decision-making. This movement hit a snag in road last year when the city’s mayorship was wrestled back from the ultra-orthodox party by a more secular leadership. Hence the sudden rise this year in ultra-orthodox demonstrations.
It all makes for a very complicated, but intriguing city; the near-insurmountable Arab/Israeli divide alongside the equally intricate and divisive clefts between the ultra-orthodox and secular Jerusalemites. It’s only a surprise that tensions don’t overflow more often. It really does make good old London seem like the multicultural paradise.
Just before posting this I stumbled across a news article in the local Haartez newspaper that while the factory will continue to work on Saturdays they have decided to reach a compromise with the ultra-orthodox community by agreeing to employ only non-Jews on the Saturday (Intel to employ only non-Jews at Jerusalem plant on Shabbat) Perhaps I should send them a CV
– well that’s if I had work permit.
So today was meant to be the day when I would be able to plaster a photo of my passport with accompanying Israeli work visa stamped neatly into it. But, alas, today was not to be the day. My passport remains empty
Before you all get too worried I should quickly state that our interviews went well and yes, the Israeli authorities do believe that we are a genuine couple. Called in one at a time, we were both able to give identical answers to a wide range of questions about our relationship – questions ranging from how we met, to who does what housework, and what we had for dinner last night. Quite a novel experience really and thankfully far from the nerve-wracking scenario it could so easily have been.
Unfortunately there are still problems with one of my documents. Along with the birth certificate, passport and the like we also had to produce my criminal (free) record from the British police. The document we turned up with was a CRB check (criminal records bureau check) from when I was working with a London charity. Despite that this document is one of the most enhanced forms of police checks you can have, just because the “dear” old ladies in the interior ministry office had never seen such a document before means that it seems my whole visa-application process is going to be delayed by at least for another month whilst we go about applying for the “proper” document.
It’s a bit of a nuisance, especially as I’ve had to turn down a decent job interview for the very reason that I am without a work permit. But I guess we should still be thankful that we’ve got through the most stressful stages of the application process and that whilst I’m still not able to head out into the Israeli job market quite yet, and I can still keep myself busy learning Hebrew and working from home on a few projects I brought with me from England.
But watch this space. Hopefully by Christmas I’ll be able to post a photo from passport with that elusive visa.
Albeit a few weeks overdue we were finally able to move into our new Jerusalem home this week. Since Asya’s university course started over two weeks ago we’ve had to make do the best we could, living out of suitcases, moving from place to place. In the kibbutz this meant cramming into Asya’s small family home, while in Jerusalem we were able to stay with a family friend in the quintessential quiet Jerusalem commuter town, Mevaseret Tzion. It hasn’t been ideal, but then again I have become pretty used to these ad-hoc living arrangements over the years – but with summer still holding out and Jerusalem still so new and exciting, there never really could be anything worth complaining about.
We’ve been in our new place a week now, and while it still feels as if we’re having to make do with the bare basics it’s just been nice to have, at long last, our own place. Nevertheless, bit-by-bit, pieces of donated family furniture make their way up to Jerusalem and are going a long way to make the flat feel more like a new home.
An interesting aspect to our flat is its location directly opposite the local synagogue. Needless to say Jerusalem is a religious city which upholds the Sabbath more so than most places here in Israel – the day of the week where the country comes to a total standstill. So there we were moving in last Saturday, parked right out in front of the synagogue at the height of Shabbat, labouring

The Edmond Safra Synagogue viewed from our balcony.
heavy boxes and furniture up the two flights of stairs; I can’t imagine any of the religious locals would have been too impressed by our lack of pious devotion to this “day of rest”. Thankfully our neighbourhood isn’t overtly religious; otherwise we may well have been hounded out of town. No seriously, make the mistake of accidentally driving through an ultra-orthodox neighbourhood on Shabbat and you WILL be stoned by the locals. Needless to say, the mystifying world of Jerusalem’s large ultra-orthodox communities will feature heavily in future posts.
Along with the synagogue and its devout conjugation, the echoing evening call to prayer from distant mosques only added to the mystical sights and sounds that envelop this holiest of cities.
My initial impressions of living in Jerusalem were, however, not of a city steeped in religious fervour, but rather of a city shrouded in the heaviest and darkest of rain clouds. Gosh, I could almost have been back in London. After weeks of blue skies and 30 something degrees it was a shock to the system to see the heavens unleash themselves upon the State of Israel – a country where rain is greeted with almost the same sense of marvel as we would greet snow. Back in the kibbutz, the pleasant Friday afternoon pitter-patter of rain on the porch roof soon gave way to hours of thunderous rain and hail clouds. And back in Jerusalem it was time to reacquaint myself with the sweater, the umbrella and thick blankets. But that was last week; normal service has since returned and we’re back to the bright sunshine and 20+ degrees.

Asya's Dad (Lev) helping us move in and installing the all important Internet connection.
Now that we’re finally settling in, and not living out of suitcases and backpacks anymore, I hope to have more time to write a bit more on this blog, more than just the weekly updates. This week the big topic worth writing about will be our interview at the Ministry of the Interior this Thursday – will they, won’t they give me the work permit?? Crossing fingers…

Settling In...

It’s a little hard to explain what a bat mitzvah really entails, especially as a kibbutz bat mitzvah probably has very little in common with the more religious sort – no readings from the Torah here! Along with the mountains of food and hundreds of guests from far and wide, there were various speeches and a power point presentation of the Kovarsky family tree.
Perhaps most worryingly for me was the family tradition of all family members getting up and singing for the gathered audience culminating in one big family sing-a-long. As much as I have been welcomed into the Kovarsky family I am glad to say, at least on this occasion, this did not extend to me being obliged to join them on stage for my own little rendition. But next time round there may be no exemptions…

The Kovarsky Family Sing-a-Long
All the celebrations were held under an open sky, something which of course would be impossible back in the UK or Denmark. In fact, Israel was going through its own late summer heat-wave – the +35°C sort (any notions of wearing my suit for the occasion quickly evaporated!) However, unlike most Danish family celebrations where proceedings often head on well into the wee hours of the following morning, this bat mitzvah was rather short-lived with most people heading off home well before midnight. Hmm…I guess with the kibbutz being so far away from anywhere people must have needed to drive a long way to get here.
Anyway, luckily us the local kibbutz pub provided idyllic late night entertainment with its very own outdoor sing-a-long to old Israeli “classics”. Whilst one poor fellow strummed his guitar along to countless old Israeli “classics”, I could just sit back, wine in hand, and yet again ponder the weird and wonderful ways of the world that had brought me here, of all places…
PS: For more Bat Mitvah photos click on the Flikr link in the right hand column of this blog. Hopefully along the way I’ll be adding more photos along the way from life here in Israel. Until next time then.

As mentioned in my previous post we’re pretty fortunate that there even exists a visa that will allow me to live and work here in Israel. No such benefits were ever available to Asya when she was living and working in the UK. But even with the possibility of an Israeli work visa, moving to Israel is no mean task – I neither speak the language nor possess the funds to afford myself the luxury of spending my first 6 months simply attending Hebrew language lessons. Still, I’m already reading the Hebrew alphabet okay, stringing together basic sentences and understanding snippets of conversation here and there. Not bad progress at all, given that I am having to teach myself with aid of a simple text book and audio podcasts.
Then there’s the fact that I’m not Jewish. The whole idea of moving to Israel as a non-Jew is a bit of an oddity in itself, but then so have been so many of my other global wanderings. Unless you’re Jewish, Israel is not a country you would typically relocate to out of choice. Okay, so I’m a bit of an outsider here in that sense. But as neither Asya nor her family move in religious circles the fact that I’m not Jewish has so far meant not one iota; and I don’t think it ever will do. No, the biggest factor so far has been not being able to benefit from the all the rights and privileges that are bestowed upon all newly arrived Jewish immigrants. Let me explain…
As you may well know, the foundation of the state of Israel was based upon numerous waves of Aliyah (the immigration of Jews to Israel). Since 1950, the “Law of Return” has meant that all Jews have the right to migrate to and settle in Israel and gain immediate Israeli citizenship. I can’t speak for previous generations of migrants, but present-day migrants are not only given automatic citizenship but a whole package of integration goodies: a 6 month intensive language course, temporary initial accommodation, employment guidance, tax credits, and well…you name it. In fact, here on the kibbutz there are a handful of South African olim (the name given to newly arrived Jewish migrants), who are all enjoying the securities and benefits given to them by the Israeli state. Do I feel a bit left out? Not really. I wouldn’t ever expect free hand-outs from whatever new country I had chosen to temporarily call home.
However, the other week in Jerusalem, I did feel my first real, albeit fleeting, tinge of apprehension of what I had gotten myself into. For one reason or another we had to pass by the central offices of the Jewish Agency – the Jewish Agency coordinate and promote Jewish immigration to Israel, and more importantly thanks to the Jewish Agency Asya’s parents were asked to work in Buenos Aires and so are the cause of…well you know the rest of that happy story. Anyway, arriving at their offices we could see the entire front yard of the building was full of new Jewish arrivals from abroad, all making Aliyah. So while Asya popped into their offices for a few moments, there I stood alone on the other side of this cornered off yard – tough-looking guards and barriers ensuring that I nor anyone else could crash this invite-only party – looking in on these new arrivals enjoying the red carpet reception laid out for them.

The Jewish Agency
Listening in on the welcoming speech, which, amongst other things implored them all to learn Hebrew as fast as possible, I did ponder how ironic it was that already after a week in Israel I should be standing on the wrong side of the cordons looking in on the “true” new immigrants; once again in a new country and already the feeling of being a bit of an outsider. But that’s alright, I never came here to be an Israeli, living with one is plentiful
. And what with my secular/liberal/pacifist outlook, I can’t say Israel and, in particular, Jerusalem is the perfect match for my personality, outlook on life and so on. But hey…that’s the very reason why coming here encapsulates everything I relish about living abroad. And besides, with Asya by my side, and vice-versa, I think we’re pretty much ready to take on whatever this maddening but rewarding country and society can throw at us.
I’ll keep you posted…
A whole week has passed since I last wrote, and while last week I brought you the good news that we had finally found our new home in Jerusalem, this week I bring you news of our initial foray into the bureaucratic universe that is the Israeli Ministry of the Interior. Yes, time had finally come to get my visa application process underway…
Fortunately for us, Israel has a visa system for unmarried partners of Israeli citizens – great! However, horror stories abound of application processes being delayed for months on end, or even of couples being denied the visa for this or that reason. But thanks to Asya’s tireless research through online forums and the like we came to the office well prepared, bringing with us the necessary documents along with letters and photos proving our relationship to be genuine. Still, suddenly sitting in front of a heartless bureaucrat in a stuffy cramped office in the bowels of a dilapidated ministry building, you heart suddenly began to race in the face of a decision that could either make or break the reality of my move to Israel.
But as I said, we came pretty well prepared, with the only document causing any problem was my CRB check; it seems they are used to authoring documents issued by the police and not the Criminal Records Bureau. Hopefully this shouldn’t be too big an issue. With all other documents in order we can now look forward to the 12th November where we are likely to be questioned separately about our relationship, whether it’s truly genuine. Should be no problem whatsoever…well as long as they don’t ask me questions along the lines of what brand of facial cream Asya uses; for those of you have seen the film “Green Card”.
Despite the fact that we’re in mid-October, it’s another sweltering hot night here in the Negev desert, not that I’m complaining. After what was yet another disappointing English summer, it’s been great reacquainting myself with the pairs of shorts and flip-flops that haven’t been in proper use since…well since last time I was here probably.
But enough about the weather. Got back from Jerusalem last night safe in the knowledge that we had cleared the first major hurdle of our big move – yes we have finally found ourselves a cute little furnished apartment, no mean task in Jerusalem. We actually found the place when we first visited Jerusalem lack, but had to wait to hear if we were the lucky ones to be chosen; quite a few other couples had supposedly shown interest. But now that the contract has been signed we can begin to look forward to finally, after years of sharing a whole range of weird and wonderful houses and flats with other people, to actually having a place of our own.
Anyway I will wait to tell/show you more about our new home once we move in, in roughly 2 weeks time. What I will say though, is that there enough space for any visitors who feeling like dropping by; so hereby consider yourselves all invited!
Aside from finalising the contract, my 2 days in Jerusalem were spent wondering aimlessly around the city streets while Asya was out at the on university campus attending various induction classes. Actually, with the fierce midday heat still energy-sapping, even though we’re in mid-autumn, I opted for the lounging under the cool shade of the tree in a park with a stunning view over the Old Walled City. Here hours were spent reading, listening to podcasts, and of course working my way through my Hebrew audio lessons; all so idyllic.

The park I happened to find refuge in is situated next to the glamorous King David hotel, residence of choice for world leaders and the like when in Jerusalem. Back in the day when Palestine was under British rule it functioned as the British headquarters. It’s perhaps equally famous for being partly blown up in 1946 by the militant Zionist group Irgun who openly fought British rule and their refusal to allow the mass migration of Jews into Palestine. The British occupation of Palestine from 1917-1948 (present day Israel and Jordan) is something I knew very little about before visiting Israel and I can’t remember it ever being taught in school much. At first glance, the fact that in the aftermath of all the World War II atrocities we actively prohibited the migration of Jews to their new safe haven seems outright deplorable – perhaps that’s why it’s not high on Britain’s top Empire achievements. Anyway it’s definitely a part of British history that I’m actively going to look more into. Until then here’s a picture of the plaque outside the hotel the retells the tale of what has been called “one of the most lethal terrorist attacks of the 20th century.”

Indeed the bombing of the hotel continues to be widely celebrated, not least by current Israeli PM Benjamin Netanyahu who attended celebrations marking the 60th anniversary of the bombing and the unveiling of another commemorative plaque. Naturally the British we far from amused, as this article in The Times shows, “British Anger at Terror Celebration.”
For a country that has had, and continues to live to with its own horrific share of militant/terrorist atrocities I do find it hard to understand how they can celebrate their own acts of terrorism, an act which did kill 92 people – with or without the warning. Is it too big a stretch to draw comparisons between the motives behind that particular bombing and present day terrorist attacks committed against Israel? Well I’m not entirely sure yet what I think…
Better leave it for now. It’s 11 pm and time to head off to the local kibbutz pub for a beer or two. Tuborg or Carlsberg? Danish beers have certainly cornered the market here. Well at least it makes me a feel a little bit at home

















